500 meters from the fence erected on the Polish side of the border with Belarus, stands the village of Ozierany Male. Now only three residents live there permanently, and a couple more people come here periodically. But for several weeks now, the village has not left the pages of Polish publications. It’s all about the unusual initiative of the local soltys, or headman, Leszek Skrodzki. He invited everyone to move to the village and uploads videos on YouTube about how freely one can live in Ozierany. We watched the mesmerizing videos and also went to the village.
The editorial offices of Hrodna.life and MOST continue their joint project about people, phenomena, and events on both sides of the Belarusian-Polish border.
Getting to Ozierany without a car is not easy. Buses do not go here, and the village itself seems to be lost among forests, hills, and several lakes — thanks to them it got its name («oziero» or «jezioro» means «lake»).
Leszek Skrodzki gives us a lift to Ozierany. The path lies through Bobrowniki — once there was a border crossing through the Belarusian-Polish border, but since February 2023, traffic through it has been closed. This is how Poland reacted to the verdict against the activist of Polish origin and journalist Andrzej Poczobut.
Leszek is 57 years old, he was born in Masuria, in the northeast of Poland, but he lived almost all his life in Bialystok — he worked in the police. After retiring, the man became the headman of the village where his wife comes from.
On the way, we are stopped by border guards. It seems that now we will have to show documents and explain what we are doing a kilometer from the Belarusian border. But it turns out that the border guards just want to chat with Leszek: they are interested to know what has changed in the village after the whole of Poland started talking about it. And journalists do not surprise them. When Mr. Skrodzki’s video attracted everyone’s attention, they come to Ozierany to shoot reports several times a week. And the headman now has a busy schedule.
From England — to Bobrowniki, to be closer to grandmother
Without driving even a few hundred meters, we notice a group of military men. They are lounging on a bench, smoking. Leszek explains that now the military has a shift change — they are waiting for a company car to pick them up.
— I know almost everyone — they buy Jerusalem artichokes from me, — says the headman.
Leszek has held this position for only six months, but it seems that he is aware of everything that is happening in Ozierany and the surrounding area. Leszek willingly tells who bought an abandoned house in Bobrowniki, why the bulls died at a guy from a neighboring village, and who stole a donation box from the local church as a child.
— This is the house of the very pleasant pani Magdalena. She lived in Great Britain for many years, and then came to Bobrowniki and bought a plot, — Leszek drives up to the gate and honks several times.
Magdalena says that her grandmother comes from the Grodno region. Therefore, she bought a house in Bobrowniki to be closer to her roots. Now, in the warm season, the woman conducts classes right on her plot — she shows how to make rag dolls-krupenichki.
— And I also embroider on your Belarusian linen. The pattern is rooted in the Grodno tradition, — says Magdalena.
There is a TV, but the programs are only Belarusian
Finally we arrive in Ozierany. Previously, up to 200 people lived in the village, now there are only three permanent residents. Leszek also comes here only periodically to put the site in order.
He introduces us to the oldest resident of the village, 68-year-old Romek, formerly known throughout the village and surrounding area as an accordionist.
— A very sociable and intelligent guy, — describes him the headman. To appease and win over his neighbor, Leszek treats him to sausage and a bun.
Romek’s house is the largest and tallest in the village. True, it is falling into disrepair. There is not even a toilet — Romek has to go to the barn.
It’s cool inside the house. A cat is washing itself in the kitchen — seeing us, it immediately slips through the door. In the room where Romek sleeps, there is a TV (though, it only catches the Belarus 1 channel, and Romek does not watch Polish television). Several icons on the walls, cobwebs swaying in the corners.
Romek is retired — he says that the postman should come and bring money one of these days. Romek’s pension is only 800 zlotys, which is less than half of the minimum wage established in Poland. The headman explains that most of the amount goes to loans that «dishonest people» took out on Romek.
The man himself almost never goes anywhere, his legs hurt badly — he walks slowly, leaning on a stick. Romek suspects that this is hereditary: his parents also had problems with their legs.
— I am Belarusian. There are no Catholics here [in the village]. There was one, but she is already dead. Well, and Leszek — but he is a good guy, — Romek says incoherently.
The man recalls that it used to be fun in Ozierany: young people organized dances, and Romek accompanied them on the accordion.
Now most of the residents have already died, others have moved to the cities. Romek’s brothers also left — one lives in Bialystok, the second — in Grodno.
— My wife sold my instruments so that I wouldn’t play. My son also left — he doesn’t communicate with me. And I have been in Ozierany since birth. I think I will be here until the end — I will pass away here.
«Three or four months — and the border will open»
From Ozierany to the Belarusian border — 500 meters. It is not difficult to see the fence separating the two countries — even the border booth and a sign with the inscription Granica Państwa («State Border») are visible.
Belarusian forests are clearly visible from the house of 73-year-old Mirek. The man came here nine years ago from Bydgoszcz. He was a driver for an artist, brought her to Ozierany, and stayed here. It took the Pole a hundred days to build a light green house with yellow windows — he did everything with his own hands.
Life in the border zone does not cause any special emotions in Mirek: border guards and military men do not scare him, he has never seen irregular migrants.
— Three or four months — and the border will open, — he is sure.
During his life, Mirek managed to live in Warsaw, Berlin, and Frankfurt. He knows four languages: Polish, English, German, and Russian. He agrees to talk to us and allows us to take a photo only after he changes his work cap to a straw hat. «This is a Renaissance man,» the headman describes him.
The man writes poems, and also makes wooden pegs and paints them with humorous phrases that can be translated, for example, as follows: «Use it boldly, use it wisely — and soon your mother-in-law will respect you.»
Mirek’s other passion is crocuses. He has planted over a thousand flowers on his plot, some of which have already sprouted — yellow petals are visible. While Mirek and I are admiring the crocuses, something terrible happens: Leszek, wanting to check if the garlic has sprouted, walks right across the flower bed with the young flowers.
«Well, f*cking hell, what are you doing? Crocuses! They’ve been growing here for two years, and for what, for you to trample them?» Mirek shouts.
Leszek assures him that he didn’t touch a single flower.
A wooden installation adorns Mirek’s plot: Orthodox and Catholic crosses, the Star of David, and the Islamic crescent. The man made it with his own hands as a tribute to the peoples who lived on these lands.
They used to earn money by smuggling, now — by farming
Leszek shows us the only brick house in Ozierany. It is abandoned and gradually collapsing — only one wall has survived. A cross is laid out of bricks under the roof overhang.
«Take a picture. Let people see that plots can be bought here,» Leszek asks.
The prices are not throwaway. For one plot in a neighboring village, they are asking for 105 thousand zlotys, for another — it is privately owned — 170 thousand zlotys. But these offers are more for Polish citizens; foreigners will have to work hard to get permission from the Ministry of Internal Affairs to buy land in the border area.
Opposite the ruined house stands another one — neat, with a new roof and double-glazed windows. Well-fed chickens run around the plot, a fluffy cat diligently washes itself. This house belongs to 59-year-old Janek. But on the day of our arrival, he is not in a good mood — he recently had a tooth extracted.
«Oh, there was such a strong inflammation there — my cheek swelled up like this,» Leszek says.
Janek is not in the mood for conversation. He says he is nervous because of the pain, and besides, there is a lot of work to do around the farm. The man lives with his brother — he has an apartment in Bialystok, but he still prefers life in the village.
When Janek was younger, he often traveled to Berestovitsa — the border crossing point adjacent to Bobrowniki on the Belarusian side of the border. From there, he brought alcohol and cigarettes for sale, and that’s how he earned his living. Now it has become more difficult, the man admits. But smuggling cannot be completely stopped: during the conversation, Janek takes out a pack of Belarusian «Minsk» cigarettes — he says it cost him 11 zlotys (almost twice cheaper than legal cigarretes in Polish shops).
Now Janek has started a farm — he sells eggs for 2 zlotys apiece and keeps sheep. He believes that their meat is much tastier and healthier than pork.
«I want people to come here»
At the end of the village stands Leszek’s house. Work is currently underway there — the староста (village head) is creating an agritourism complex. But due to the proximity to the border and the large number of military personnel, there are almost no people willing to stay in Ozierany. Business is slow.
Nevertheless, Leszek is diligently preparing for the arrival of guests. He decorated the fence with photographs, hung light bulbs on the trees, and placed plastic flamingos around the plot. Leszek made two wooden figures, a grandmother and a grandfather, inspired by his in-laws.
The староста is building houses for tourists with his own money. He even had to go to Germany to earn money. For six months, Leszek worked as a caregiver, helping elderly people with dementia.
«The European Union didn’t give a penny. It’s not easy with the gmina (commune) now either. They don’t like that I started talking about the problems of the village out loud. And I just want people to come here and for Ozierany not to die out,» Leszek explains.
Now a Belarusian named Vladimir (name changed) lives in one of the headman’s houses. The man helps Leszek with construction.
«Now there are many people who want to take advantage of Leszek’s kindness. And he is such a person who finds it difficult to refuse — he helps everyone,» Vladimir says.
The man dreams of creating a place in Ozierany where Belarusians could come.
«If it didn’t work out in our country, let’s create a small and safe Belarus here,» Vladimir adds.
«Jerusalem artichoke will cure everything except death»
There was a strong wind the day before — it ruffled the advertising banners that say that the internet has been brought to the village. Leszek diligently straightens them.
A public toilet has also been installed in the village. Inside is a photograph of two residents of Ozierany who joined the ranks of the Red Army in the 1920s.
Leszek cultivates fields of Jerusalem artichoke. According to the староста, the plant has almost magical properties. The староста even put up a wooden sign that reads «Jerusalem artichoke will cure everything except death.» The man treats us to fermented, pickled, and fresh Jerusalem artichoke.
«I sell it, it makes a good income — 25 zlotys per jar. I send it all over the country through parcel lockers,» Leszek explains.
So far, the man owns four plots. He wanted to buy another one, but for this, he would have to exchange his apartment in Bialystok — his wife did not decide on such a step.
The Jerusalem artichoke fields come right up to the border. Leszek drives us in a car — the distance between his plot and the fence is rapidly shrinking. It becomes uncomfortable, and we ask the староста to slow down.
«This is my land. I do what I want on it. I can drive like this and like that, let them watch,» Leszek makes sharp turns across the field.
«What is happening now is the responsibility of politicians»
Leszek drives us around the outskirts of the village. We climb a high hill — from it, you can see both Polish forests and buildings on the Belarusian side. They are probably located on the territory of the village of Dinevichi. According to the староста, residents of the Polish side used to go to work in Belarusian village councils.
On the hill stands a small makeshift hut covered with oilcloth. Inside are two benches and empty plastic bottles.
«The military used to sit here. One drone arrives — and there are no guys, no house,» Leszek says thoughtfully.
The sun is gradually setting below the horizon. The headman notes that Ozierany has the clearest sky and the most beautiful sunsets. Lights come on on the Belarusian side of the border.
«I don’t divide people into Belarusians, Poles, Ukrainians. I always say: there are bad people and there are good people. And what is happening now is the responsibility of politicians and diplomats who, apparently, did not learn their job very well,» he says.
Who and how saves dying villages in Belarus
The extinction of villages is not only a Polish problem. According to the National Statistical Committee of Belarus, 75 villages have disappeared from the map of the country in the last five years. If in 2020 the number of settlements was 23,265, then by 2024 there were 23,191 left, and by 2025 — 23,190.
Since January 2023, a Unified Register of Vacant Houses has been in effect in Belarus. Buildings in which no one lives can be declared alienated, included in the register, and then sold at auction or demolished. As of January 1, 2025, there were 4,513 such houses in the Grodno region. If a house is not of interest to buyers for a long time, the price can be reduced even to one base amount — 42 rubles. At this price, 202 houses were sold in the Grodno region in 2024. 2.5 times more were demolished.
Since February 2025, the Ministry of Labor has been implementing a financial support program for those who move to live in the countryside. People are ready to be paid 9 times the subsistence minimum budget — a little more than 4 thousand rubles. At the same time, the person applies for a job at the new location. As part of the program, a tripartite agreement is concluded between the migrant, the employment service, and the employer.
However, there are people in Belarus who are ready to restore villages without government subsidies. For example, 11 years ago, businessman Pavel Radyukevich decided to restore the village of Tinevichi in the Grodno region — and bought almost all the houses in it. They were restored, a barrier was installed, and even an office with a reception was made. Now it is the tourist village «Belye Lugi» — something between an ethnographic museum, a peasant farm, and an all-inclusive vacation.
Ksenia and Mikhail from Minsk found a house in the Myadzel district, on the Blue Lakes, in 2023. And then they bought another house in the Glubokoe district. Now Mikhail and Ksenia are restoring both houses, and at the same time developing the blog «Vyoska Life» — in it they talk about how abandoned village houses can be revived.
— In any case, the villages will be revived completely differently. These will not be houses with toilets on the streets. People who are now buying old houses want amenities: internet, heated floors. Almost no one will keep cows, pigs now. These will be new villages, — said Mikhail.
