The «Bialystok» restaurant operates in Grodno, Belarus and the «Grodno» bar operates in Bialystok, Poland. In 1974, they were solemnly opened for the anniversary of the October Revolution: establishments in twin cities were supposed to symbolize the friendship of peoples of socialistic countries. 50 years later, both places are still popular, even if there is no friendship between countries. Hrodna.life, together with MOST Media, has compiled the history of two legendary establishments and looked at what is happening with them now.
The Grodno restaurant in Bialystok opened on November 5, 1974, at 28 Sienkiewicza Street, on the site of the Lux establishment, which was well-known in those years. The design of the new restaurant was carried out by the Grodno architect Kamil Asadov. He decorated the walls with large wooden bas-reliefs symbolizing the city on the Neman river.
At the same time, Bialystok opened in Grodno at the corner of Sovetskaya and Vilenskaya streets — today it is the house at 20 Sovetskaya Street, where the Na Vilenskaya business center is located.
The Bialystok restaurant specialized in Belarusian cuisine, and the Grodno restaurant specialized in Polish cuisine. Polish waiters and cooks mastered the skills of preparing and serving dishes in Grodno, and specialists from Bialystok transferred professional skills to the staff of the Belostok restaurant in the Belarusian city.
Three Grodno «Bialystoks»
The first Grodno in Bialystok, although it changed outwardly, always remained at the same address, but the history of Bialystok in Grodno was not so stable. Over these 50 years, the establishment has changed three locations and even temporarily disappeared from the map of Grodno catering.
The first, most famous «Bialystok», worked on the corner of Sovetskaya and Vilenskaya streets. Previously, the «Belarus» restaurant and hotel, a model canteen and a café already operated here. Popular establishments were here in the 1930s — «during Polish times». So the Grodno residents knew the place well. But «Bialystok» became a completely new level point for Grodno.
The restaurant project was carried out by Bialystok architects, interior elements, furniture and table setting were brought from Poland. There were also Polish accents on the menu: for example, you could order a classic Polish tartar — raw ground beef with onions and raw yolk.
«Bialystok» quickly gained popularity and even began to be perceived as an elite place. Grodno residents went there not just to have lunch, but to relax. It was the first establishment in the city where restaurant musicians worked professionally. Visitors could listen to high-quality live music, even Beatles covers, and dance to them. But you had to pay extra for this — in the evenings, the entrance to the restaurant was 1 ruble 50 kopecks.
Local historian Viktor Sayapin recalled in his books that his schoolmates Sergei Podgaichenko and Igor Shelepenko played in Bialystok. «They copied the musicians of the legendary Liverpool four just great,» Sayapin wrote. Grodno residents recall that the young Anatoly Torbochkin, the drummer of the famous «Syabry» group, also played in the restaurant.
The second «Bialystok»: three halls and complete social realism
Bialystok worked on Sovetskaya Street for almost 11 years. In April 1985, the city authorities decided to close the building for major repairs — as a result, it lasted 30 years. Just then, the new «Grodno» hotel was opening on Popovich Street. Then the «Grodno» restaurant, which used to operate at the intersection of Gorodnichanskaya and Telman, moved to Popovich. And the vacated place was temporarily transferred to the «homeless» restaurant «Bialystok».
The new «Bialystok» was more spacious than the previous one — three halls instead of two in the old location, the total area is 450 sq. meters, the establishment was designed for almost 200 people. The interior was also not bad: with leather, wood, embossing and tapestry in the banquet hall. Not far from the restaurant, its branch worked — the «Agenchyk» cocktail bar at 12 Telegrafnaya Street, which later became the «Na Telegrafnaya» bar.
In the new «Bialystok», as older Grodno residents recall, there was also good live music. For example, the still very young Valery Skorozhonok, who later became the soloist of «Pesnyary», performed there. The kitchen was also in perfect order. Grodno resident Vadim, in a conversation with Vecherniy Grodno, said that the secret of good service and high-quality cuisine could be in close proximity to the authorities — the trust of canteens and restaurants was located in the same building.
This «Bialystok» worked until the beginning of the 2000s and also became a victim of major repairs: since 2004, the owners of the building began to change one after another, and no one was able to complete the reconstruction.
How much did lunch cost in Bialystok in the early 2000s
An idea of the establishment shortly before its closure can be obtained from the Polish tourist information booklet «Grodno. Miasto nad Niemnem», which was published in February 2005. Its authors, Adam Lis and Krzysztof Matzkowski, who visited the restaurant, had the impression of «complete social realism». They remembered the huge hall, the walls decorated with porcelain stoneware mosaics and three large glass chandeliers.
Thanks to the Polish authors, we know that in the early 2000s, a set lunch in Bialystok consisting of soup, a meat dish, a piece of bread, salad and tea cost 2,750 rubles, or about $ 1.25 at the exchange rate at the end of 2004. The restaurant was open from 12.30 to midnight. At the same time, from 20.00 to 00.00 «the cutlet could be chewed to the music of a dance ensemble.»
The third «Bialystok»: return after 34 years
By 2015, the renovation of the building where the very first Bialystok once worked was finally completed. And in 2016, a visa-free regime for tourists from the EU began to operate in Grodno — and new establishments began to open actively. True, the premises of the same «Bialystok» were quickly occupied by a coffee shop and confectionery from «Kommunarka». Therefore, «Bialystok» was revived at the same address, but in the basement. The old border brand was decided to be revived by the owners of the Knyazhesky Dvor restaurant, which operates in the Mir Castle. But this time «Bialystok» became a restaurant not of Polish, but of Belarusian cuisine.
The third «Bialystok» was solemnly opened by the then chairman of the Grodno City Executive Committee Mechislav Goy and the President of Bialystok Tadeusz Truskolasky. The latter then expressed the hope that the revival of the Grodno «Bialystok» would further connect the two cities.
«The fact that this restaurant is opening is evidence that relations between cities are very good today. By opening such a place, we have renewed the old twin cities agreement. It is important that today residents of Grodno and Bialystok often travel to each other. And I think that guests from Poland will be happy to come to this new Grodno restaurant and try Belarusian cuisine. I hope that they will not forget about Podlaska cuisine in this place,» Truskolasky said then.
Belarusian songs and humor in Polish «Grodno»
On the opening day of the «Grodno» restaurant, November 5, 1974, the first visitors were high-ranking guests from both Grodno and Bialystok. A tour and a performance by the ensemble of the local Belarusian Public and Cultural Society were organized for them. The management of the establishment promised that «such performances, popularizing Belarusian songs and humor, will be held in Grodno weekly.»
The colleagues from Grodno presented the Bialystok restaurant with a large key, a commemorative album and a book of Belarusian recipes — they are still kept in the establishment.
After the artistic part, the tasting began. «Lyubitelskiy» salad was served as an appetizer. The name was incomprehensible to the public who did not speak Russian. The local press even suggested that, «judging by the name, lovage may be present in the composition» — a herbaceous plant that is added as a spice to salads and sauces.
«After the salad, vereshchaka was served, known from Old Polish cuisine, and in the Grodno version it was a soup on bread sourdough with vegetables and lard. Braised pork Borisov-style or Neptune schnitzel were offered as the main course. Potato pampushki were served with the meat. For dessert, there was kulaga — buckwheat porridge with blueberries, seasoned with honey,» wrote the Bialystok newspaper.
At the time, the press reported that the guests liked the level of the new establishment.
Striptease and a Shy Dancer
Later, the Grodno restaurant repeatedly hit the front pages of local newspapers. In 1977, the press wrote that the famous Polish singer Maryla Rodowicz came to Bialystok, but she was not allowed into the establishment due to inappropriate appearance.
And 11 years later, on January 1, 1986, the restaurant was again in the spotlight. Those who remembered that 12 years ago it was opened for the anniversary of the October Revolution could not believe their eyes: striptease was shown in Grodno. Warsaw dancer Olivia caused a real stir.
After a successful evening, the Grodno management decided to invite a local artist. However, a problem arose: before each performance, the girl claimed that she was very shy. The management expressed the hope that when she overcomes this feeling, she will be able to demonstrate all her talent, although she was still far from Olivia.
However, other, less controversial events were often held at the Grodno restaurant. Among other things, the restaurant hosted Belarusian cuisine festivals, and representatives of the Belarusian national minority gathered here for meetings.
10 Belarusians Work at Grodno
50 years later, the Grodno restaurant in Bialystok has turned into a beer pub and cafe with affordable lunches. The iconic establishment has two owners — Wojciech Dunikowski and Witold Gonsowski, who acquired the property in 2011.
«When we arrived in 2011, we immediately wanted to return the historical name to the restaurant. There was a period when the establishment operated under a different name. For us, the return of history was a priority, and we did it. I remember how this restaurant opened in Bialystok, how we went there in our youth. Then it was an exclusive establishment in the city, the menu included Belarusian dishes. We wanted to bring back this tradition. I remember that even then, along with the Grodno restaurant, the Kaunas restaurant with Lithuanian cuisine was opened in Bialystok,» recalls Gonsowski.
In 2024, the partners already have three Grodno establishments in Bialystok. They do not rule out that new locations under the legendary brand will appear in the future: the city is growing.
«Grodno has always been a popular place in Bialystok. Belarusians could always be found in the city. 10 years ago, people used to go here for shopping, now many come to live. 10 Belarusians work in our establishments, some of them are from the Grodno region. And this is symbolic. We celebrate their professionalism and welcome their dishes. For example, today we have potato pancakes with Grodno-style meat, „Belarusian“ cabbage rolls, Grodno-style cutlet and other dishes on our menu. And this is all thanks to the chefs from Belarus.»
Belarusian Quizzes and New Plans
Today, many events are held in Grodno, including Belarusian ones. Emigrants hold their pub quizzes here.
The partners would very much like to visit the Bialystok restaurant in Grodno, but due to the difficult situation between Belarus and Poland, they are postponing this trip until better times.
«In the future, we are counting on cooperation between the two cities, including our restaurants. Thanks to the preserved archives, we know a lot about Bialystok in Grodno, but we have never been there. Although we live 70 kilometers away,» says Witold Gonsowski.
Indeed, today there are almost no Polish tourists in Grodno. The Bialystok restaurant has an inexpensive and good lunch menu. Mostly locals dine there, and if tourists come in, they are mainly from Russia.